While there are whiskies with age statements and whiskies with cask finishes, less often are they seen together. Even rarer are the combination of the two, especially when they feature the same mix found in a younger offering. Like the iconic Balvenie 12 Doublewood, the Balvenie 17 Doublewood is a mix of whiskies aged in ex-bourbon casks and ex-sherry casks. So, like the younger offering but with an additional five years of maturity. It is always fun to see a distillery copy most of the particulars of one scotch in their portfolio and then only tweak one factor. Most of the time, other factors are changed like differences in cask finishes, so seeing the age be the variable here allows the studied drinker to make a different kind of comparison.
Distillery: Balvenie
Region: Speyside
Age: 17 years
Strength: 43%
Price: $144.99
Maturation: ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks
Location: Dufftown
Nose: Oak, peanut shell, vanilla, cinnamon sugar, citrus, salted caramel, orange blossom
Palate: Citrus, tannin, vanilla, honey
Finish: Oak, vanilla, wintergreen
Comments: Water not needed. Compare with the younger Balvenie 12 Doublewood if handy.
Adam – I’m surprised by how oaked the nose is, with only a light floral effervescence around the edge and a salt tang here and there. Definitely not the brass section of the band. The palate is where the age is most noticeable, and an oily feel on the tongue and in the mouth. There is honey and vanilla with a rich, warm sensation. A light bit of sweetness at the end, though the finish doesn’t linger. Overall, an exceptionally smooth customer overall, especially if you’re already disposed to the core Balvenie flavor profile. I’m a little wistful, however, at there not being more on the offering. It’s a slightly grown up version of the Balvenie 12, but the Balvenie 17 doesn’t seem to have gained much of anything from the additional five years, just polished some rough edges. For those who do not like brash whiskies or invasions of peat, this is a lovely dram. The price point, however, begs the question if this perfectly safe gent is worth the fee, especially compared to some of the other offerings you can get both from Balvenie and from other Speyside malts. I can only speak for myself, but for this price, I expect to be very impressed. The Balvenie 17 is pleasant but that is as far as I can go.
Meghan – I wanted it to be more exciting than it is. The Balvenie 17 is what it says it is. This feels heavier on the wood than the original Doublewood. It feels like all the flavors I’m getting are from the wood. The nose is the most interesting part. I have a feeling this is something I wouldn’t want to spend what it costs. Part of it is I don’t like heavily oaked anything, including wines. It tastes like a new clarinet reed. It’s giving me the same tannic dryness that reminds me of a dry reed. I’m just underwhelmed.
Michael – I really did like the nose, an excellent way. Personally, when I had it, it slapped me in the face with the oak but started to balance out over time. As it mellowed, I was able to pickup the other flavors like mint and toasted grain, which I really like in whiskies, was hidden underneath the oak.
I wanted it to be more exciting than it is.
Ben – I like that nutty kind of oaky-ness that starts off big in the nose and carries you through to the end. I like that. Why shouldn’t that be the experience with the older Doublewood? I definitely get the sweetness, especially in the nose with the dry tannin right up front. And it seems like…I feel like I did get a citrus flavor but I sometimes wonder how much that is an influence from the conversation.
Kate – It’s like you meet a guy and think they’re interesting. Then you meet their older brother and you have these expectations that they’ll be older and more mature and more interesting, but then they end up not like you’d expect or what you’d hope. Balvenie hit the mark on the 12 for the Doublewood and I’m happy sticking there.
Henry – The nose is welcoming and intriguing. But then the back half of the palate falls away. The Balvenie 17 is the elevated experience for the blended whisky drinker. I could see it progressing from Juicy Fruit to warm vanilla to toasty oak at the end, with the dry tannin. It’s very smooth, a linear progression. It transmutes smooth, freshly cut greenwood.
